The scenic Lumpy Ridge escarpment offers classic granite crack and face climbing just minutes from Estes Park, with routes of all difficulties up to five-pitches long. This granite playground is the perfect summer venue, with varied climbing, interesting approaches and descents, and spectacular views of the high peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park. Come climb with us on famous cliffs like Sundance Buttress, The Book, The Pear and Twin Owls! And while Lumpy is a well-known destination climbing area, it is also the perfect venue to acclimatize at before heading to higher alpine routes on Spearhead, the Petit Grepon, or any other objective that CMS guides in Rocky Mountain National Park. Climb any route on the ridge in a custom outing or join a scheduled climb via our Lumpy Ridge Classic offering.
The Twin Owls
The well-named Twin Owls formation is an icon of the Lumpy Ridge skyline. Some of Lumpy’s best crack climbs are here, including the burly Wolf’s Tooth (5.8+), and the notorious Crack of Fear (5.10+). This is a great crag at which to improve one’s wide crack technique – we often climb here for our Offwidth/Crack Climbing classes. For a great Diamond training day we recommend Conad’s Gonads (5.9) to Wolf’s Tooth (5.8+), followed by Yosemite Crack (5.9-), Rooster Tail (5.9+) and Cackle Crack (5.8). The Twin Owls also offers a classic summit objective, and one of Lumpy’s nicest moderates, the historic Pin Route (5.5), which includes the infamous “Bowels of the Owls” descent.
Perhaps most famous for the striking J-Crack (5.9+), The Book is one of Lumpy’s largest and most complex cliffs. Every route here is worth doing, from classics on the Left Book like White Whale (5.7) and Hiatus (5.7), to Pear Buttress (5.8), Melvin’s Wheel (5.8), Fantasy Ridge (5.9), or the stout Thindependence/J-Crack/Cheap Date/Outlander link-up (5.10) on the main wall. This is perfect “mileage” terrain, and a great place to fine-tune multi-pitch rope management systems.
The most remote and largest cliff on Lumpy Ridge, a climb on Sundance is a full-day endeavor, requiring an early start, good fitness, and efficient climbing. Some of Lumpy’s most renown routes are found here, climbs like the historic Kor’s Flake (5.7) with it’s offwidth crux, or the sustained Mainliner (5.9), a directissima up the center of the face. A climb on Sundance is a memorable experience, and a great stepping stone to longer routes in the high peaks like Great Dihedral on Hallett Peak (5.7) or the Northeast Ridge of Spearhead (5.7).
This is only a sampling of the great climbing at Lumpy Ridge. Come see for yourself why Lumpy is one of Colorado’s best rock climbing areas!