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Advanced Rock Climbing Anchors

  • Price: $269.00
  • Duration: 8 hours

This intermediate/advanced course teaches you why anchoring is more complicated for trad climbers and multipitch climbers, why that challenge is unavoidable, and how to overcome it.

This product is currently out of stock and unavailable.

Overview:

Multipitch trad climbers face the anchoring challenge in different circumstances than sport climbers or toprope climbers.  They often need to construct an anchor with a depleted rack of options, in less than ideal places on the cliff, and their anchors can potentially be subjected to the highest forces and loads a climbing team can create.  For this reason, advanced rock climbing anchors require sound fundamentals, creativity, and a more sophisticated approach to the anchoring challenge.

In order to focus on the anchoring challenge, this one day course uses a combination of ground school and mini-climb classrooms to give students the most hands-on experience possible.  Students will spend an introductory session discussing and experimenting with new ideas, new tactics, and they’ll be coaching and mentored along the way.  Then, students transition to a series of mini-climbs where the anchoring challenges become increasingly difficult.  At each step, our instructors provide support, feedback, and suggestions to keep students moving in the right direction.  By course-end, every student will have an action plan for the next time they face a complex anchor-building scenario.

Sample Itinerary:

8am : Introductions and Approach

9:30am :  Fundamentals Discussion and Ground School

11am :   Mini-climb Demo and Discussion

12pm :  Mini-climb 1

1pm :  Mini-climb 2

2pm :  Mini-climb 3

3pm :  Q&A and Debrief

Meeting location:

Boulder Dates:
Colorado Mountain School
633 S Broadway St.
Boulder, CO 80305

or

Denver Dates:
Big Daddy Bagels
106 N Rubey Dr # D
Golden, CO 80403

Notes:

All of our courses can be run as custom outings.  If you’re interested in a course, but it doesn’t fit into your schedule, please check out our custom guiding options.

All Upcoming Dates and Locations:

  • No dates found

Every student will achieve the following learning outcomes:

  • Build at least four anchors, with coaching and support from an instructor.
  • Learn fundamental principles of anchor building and why the multipitch context increases the challenge and importance of sound anchoring.
  • Leave course with an understanding of what equipment they will need to acquire to consistently build satisfactory anchors.
  • Leave course with an action plan to continue to develop their anchor building skills.

Prerequisites:

Minimally Prepared: You will be minimally prepared for this course if you’ve built anchors in sport climbing or top roping anchors, but never experienced a multi-pitch climb.  You can learn a lot, but you will need to experience some multipitch climbing as a second before learning to lead those climbs and build those anchors yourself.

Adequately Prepared: You will adequately prepared for this course if you’ve built anchors in a sport climbing and top roping outings, and if you have also been on your first multi-pitch trad climbs as a follower and cleaned some multi-pitch anchors.  You have already seen a glimpse of the proficiency you are trying to achieve, and this course will help you build that proficiency.

Well Prepared: If you have already constructed anchors for top roping and sport outings, already experienced multi-pitch trad as a follower, and perhaps lead some simple multi-pitch climbs with bolted anchors, you will be well prepared for this course.  You will already know how complicated the anchor building can be, especially there are no bolts to help.

Preparation:

Reading the most current anchor building literature and becoming familiar with your equipment in a ground school setting is good preparation for this course.

Time:

8:00am - 4:00pm

Duration:

8 hours

Maximum Ratio:

6:1

Minimum Age:

Please call to register participants under 18
Experience Level

Intermediate, Advanced

Activity Level

Easy Active, Relaxed

Category

Rock Climbing

Duration

One-Day

Includes:

  • Trained and/or certified guide
  • Group climbing gear
    • Technical hardware – climbing protection, carabiners,etc
    • Ropes
    • Technical softgoods – slings, cordellette, etc
  • Personal climbing gear
    • Harness
    • Helmet
    • Rock shoes

Excludes:

  • Food
  • Transportation
  • Lodging
  • Clothing, backpack and non-technical personal items
  • Park Entrance Fees (where applicable)
  • Rescue Insurance
  • Trip Insurance
  • Gratuity
  • Expenses due to unforeseen circumstances beyond the control of Colorado Mountain School

Item Description Quantity Example Purchase At Rent At Equipment Type
Alpine Quickdraws

24” (shoulder-length) runners with 2 non-locking carabiners per runner (Alpine Draws).

4-8

CAMP 11mm Express Dyneema

Neptune Mountaineering

Optional
Approach Shoes

These are “hiking” shoes specifically made for approaching and descending from a climbing venue where scrambling is necessary, or even for climbing an entire route. They have sticky climbing rubber on the bottom and a formed fit to influence better climbing abilities while scrambling. Consider high-tops for additional ankles support if needed. Regular hiking boots or athletic shoes may be acceptable for many climbs.

1

Men: La Sportiva TX3 Men
Women: La Sportiva TX3 Wmn

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Auto Block

This is a small sewn loop to assist in rappelling. The #1 choice on the market is the Sterling Hollowblock, or the Sterling Autoblock.

1

Sterling Auto Block

Neptune Mountaineering

Optional
Beanie or Fleece Hat

Should cover the ears and fit under a helmet. Hats with fluff balls on top do not fit under helmets.

1

Filament Beanie

Rab

Clothing
Belay and Rappel Device

Plaquette style devices with auto-block mode are ideal.

1

CAMP Piu 2

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Belay Gloves

Leather gloves, either full fingered or fingerless. These protect your hands from rope wear when belaying or rappelling and keep your hands warm at belays.

1

CAMP Axion

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Chalk Bag

Holds climbing chalk, which is usually made from Magnesium Carbonate. This is the same compound that gymnasts, weightlifters, and other athletes will put on their hands in order to improve friction and grip.

1

CAMP Patabang

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Climbing Harness

UIAA or CE approved; With belay loop and gear loops. The waist belt should fit over multiple layers of clothing.

1

CAMP Laser CR

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School

Equipment
Climbing Pants, Shorts or Capris

For all seasons, cotton, loose-fitting (or tight, stretchy) pants are usually acceptable for rock climbing. Shorts are acceptable during the summer – though shorts expose the knees and shins to abrasions. New climbers are encouraged to wear pants or capris. A synthetic material (like in softshell pants) may be required by your guide due to potential rain storms.

1

Men: Rab Sawtooth
Women: Rab Womens Sawtooth

Rab Stores

Clothing
Climbing Rack

1-2 sets of cams, 1 set stoppers.

1

Black Diamond Camalot, CAMP Pro Nuts

Neptune Mountaineering

Optional
Cotton Socks

Cotton Socks are acceptable for most rock climbing days. Synthetic and merino wool socks tend to be too hot and make climber’s feet sweat excessively.

1

Point 6 Socks

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Double-length Sewn Runner

48″ or 120cm. Used for rappelling, making leashes, and improvised rescue.

1-2

CAMP 11mm Express Dyneema

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Face Mask – PPE

Optional; Look for a mask with a bendable border at the top so you can mold the mask to fit the bridge of your nose and prevent your glasses from fogging.

1 Clothing
Food

Proper lunches that are prepared ahead of time are recommended (sandwich, burrito, leftover pizza, etc), along with an assortment of snack bars, gels, or trail mixes. Feeze-dried meals are acceptable on overnight trips, but not day trips.

1

Made in Nature, Thrive Tribe

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Lightweight Baselayer Top

Synthetic or Merino Wool; Worn against the skin and is considered a “wicking” layer that facilitates the movement of moisture away from the skin and through the layers. Hooded base layers add extra versatility.

2

Men: Rab Syncrino Base LS Tee
Women: Rab Syncrino Base LS Tee

Rab

Clothing
Lightweight Gloves

Synthetic; Thin gloves used when hiking the early morning approach. Belay gloves can suffice if full-fingered.

1

Rab Vapour-Rise Glove

Rab Store

Clothing
Lip ScreenSPF 15 or higher.

Non-SPF rated lip balms can actually increase your chances of getting burned.

1

Rocky Mountain Sunscreen Lip Balm

Neptune Mountaineering

Optional
Long and Short Sleeve T-shirt

Cotton or Synthetic and Merino Wool; Bring a variety of short-sleeve or tank tops, and a few long-sleeve. Synthetic shirts are not required, but many prefer the feel and quick-dry performance. If your program includes crack climbing, a long sleeve cotton shirt adds a layer of comfort.

1

Rab Mantle Tee

Rab Store

Clothing
Midweight Baselayer Top

Synthetic or Merino Wool; Adds extra warmth and protection from the cold and wind without creating a moisture barrier as a jacket would. Having at least one base layer that is hooded adds versatility, protecting the neck and ears from cold winds.

1

Men: Rab Ascendor Light Hoodie
Women: Rab Ascendor Light Hoodie

Rab

Clothing
Non-locking Carabiners

Most climbers prefer wire-gated carabiners due to their light weight and low bulk, among other useful characteristics.

2-3

CAMP Nano 22

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Nut Tool

For removing rock protection.

1

CAMP Nut Tool

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Prussik Cord

1m of 6mm nylon accessory cord. Tech cord (kevlar, spectra) is not acceptable.

2

Sterling HollowBlock

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Rock Climbing Helmet

UIAA/CE approved; Should be large enough to fit over a beanie. Plastic helmets are more durable, but heavier. Foam helmets are lighter, but more easily damaged when carried in a pack.

1

CAMP Titan

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School

Equipment
Rock Climbing Shoes

Technical rock shoes are required. For beginning climbers, having a looser fit is advisable. In this case, loose means that toes are touching the front of the shoes when standing, but are not forced against the front of the shoe. In colder weather, thin socks inside climbing shoes are a great option. On long routes, rock shoes should be comfortable enough to wear for day.

1

La Sportiva TC Pro

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School; Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Smartphone

Great for taking photos and videos. Smartphone batteries tend to shut down in freezing temps – keep your phone in a warm inner layer. A tether is ideal in the mountains to protet against dropping your phone.

1 Optional
Softshell and Fleece Jacket

Water-resistant, windproof, yet it “breaths,” which means it allows moisture to move through. Hoods are ideal. There are multiple thicknesses of Softshell jackets. A lightweight or medium-weight jacket is preferred. Fleece jackets are acceptable.

1

Men: Rab VR Summit Jacket
Women: Rab VR Summit Jacket

Rab

Clothing
Sports Bra

Provides support and allows for full range of motion

1

North Face Beyond the Wall

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Sun Hat

A billed hat to keep the bright mountain sun at bay.

1

Rab Trucker Logo Cap

Rab

Clothing
Sunglasses

“Wrap-Around” style sunglasses with 100% UV Protection.

1

ZEAL RAD CLIFF SUNGLASSES

Zeal Optics 

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
SunscreenSPF 30 or higher.

Travel size.

1

Rocky Mountain Sunscreen SPF 50

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Water Bottles

1 liter bottles are the standard. Bladders such as Camelbacks and Platypus are acceptable for above freezing temps, but only in conjunction with another bottle. Bladders are not acceptable during sub freezing temps. Sports drinks are also acceptable.

2

Nalgene, Hydro Flask

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Waterproof Shell Jacket

Non-insulated, Gore-Tex, Dermizax, Event, or other waterproofing system is required. Mostly, this jacket sits in the bottom of your pack and comes out when the weather gets nasty with precipitation. This jacket should fit over all other layers.

1

Men: Rab Khroma Cirque GORE-TEX Jacket
Women: Rab Women’s Khroma Cirque GORE-TEX Jacket

Rab

Clothing

COVID-19

Q: Will COVID-19 impact my course?

A: 2020 made it clear that running programs while managing the risk of COVID-19 transmission is a challenge. It is a challenge that the Colorado Mountain School team tackled creatively and courageously. We may need to shift our classrooms to virtual settings at a moment’s notice. We may need to put on masks unexpectedly. We may need to go outside and distance ourselves. No matter what though, we are committed to running programs, providing education, and serving our mission, while also maintaining the highest standards of risk management. Please visit our FAQ page or contact us for more information.

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