Eldorado Canyon Classic Climb

  • Price: $349.00
  • Duration: 8 hours

The Eldorado Canyon Classic Climb is a discounted guided climb of one of Eldorado Canyon’s incredible rock climbs.

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Overview:

Eldorado Canyon, also known as “Eldo”, is loaded with classic climbing. Just minutes from Denver and featuring routes over 600 feet tall, Eldo is a playground for climbers of all abilities. Once deep in the canyon and high off the ground, it’s easy to see why climbers celebrate these multi-colored, angular sandstone walls. Since the early days of American rock climbing, Eldorado Canyon has been at the forefront.  Eldo packs as much beauty and adventure into an easily accessible canyon as any place imaginable.

Affectionately known as “Eldo” by local climbers, the towering sandstone cliffs of Eldorado Canyon State Park is steeped in climbing history.  These walls were the site of the traditional climbing revolution of the 1970s, and to this day Eldo provides a challenging arena in which to develop one’s “trad” skills and climbing abilities.  With upwards of 600 climbs and walls up to 700 feet high wall, Eldo offers some of the best rock climbing in North America.  The five-pitch Bastille Crack, a mega-classic, is probably the most frequently climbed route in Colorado.  A sampling of other fantastic routes includes Wind Ridge, Ruper, Rewritten, Green Spur, Yellow Spur and the Naked Edge.  Short approach hikes make it possible for the average party to climb 10 pitches a day, and with a variety of aspects throughout the canyon, climbers ascend the walls year-round.

The climbing, sometimes described as tricky and technical, requires thought, delicate footwork and gymnastic body positioning. In Eldo, it doesn’t work to simply charge ahead mindlessly.  You’ll find very few “soft” grades in Eldo, so pick your routes accordingly and bring a full bag of tricks.  Protection can be difficult to find, and without open eyes looking in all directions, so can the holds. But hidden edges and seemingly magical sequences unlock themselves for the climber flexible in mind and body. Such movement, combined with striking natural beauty and the knowledge that you’re following in the footsteps of climbing’s legends, makes climbing in Eldo an experience not soon forgotten.

Join Colorado Mountain School and follow in the footsteps (and handholds) of climbing legends like Layton Kor, Jim Erickson and Roger Briggs as you venture up anything from a multi-pitch moderate on the Wind Tower, to a more adventurous excursion on Redgarden Wall. Our guides are intimately familiar with the canyon (CMS Guide Steve Levin authored the acclaimed guidebook, “Eldorado Canyon: A Climbing Guide”), and frequently lead climbers up classics like Rewritten, The Yellow Spur, Ruper, or The Naked Edge. Choose between a personally-tailored Custom Guided day or a discounted Eldorado Canyon Classic Climb. Whichever way you chose to climb with us, it will be an experience that you won’t soon forget!

Details:

Swanson Arete: Rated 5.6, 4 pitches:
One of the best moderate routes in Eldorado, you’ll begin up a chimney on the West Face of Redgarden Wall to access the exposed upper arete pitches. Several variations on the arete offer a range of challenge before the beautiful summit of Lumpe Tower is reached.

Calypso: Rated 5.6, 3 or 4 pitches:
This is an excellent introduction to Eldorado climbing, combining balancy face and crack climbing up a beautiful corner, and a challenging bulge on pitch two. Calypso is also a perfect intro to multi-pitch, with an optional summit and technical descent making for a complete climbing experience.

The Bastille Crack: Rated 5.7++, 5 pitches:
100-feet from the parking lot, this is the most visible, historic and popular route in Eldorado (and maybe Colorado!). An exposed journey up steep jam cracks and corners, the Bastille Crack exemplifies Eldo’s stiff technical grades and thought-provoking climbing.

Rewritten: Rated 5.7 (with the 5.8 Great Zot start), 6 pitches:
Many climbers consider this the quintessential Eldo tour, and our guides agree! Pitch after varied pitch lead upwards to the spectacularly exposed Rebauffat’s Arete, hundreds of feet off the deck. Hand and finger cracks, delicate traversing, chimneys- Rewritten has it all!

Gambit: Rated 5.8, 4 pitches:
High on the flanks of Shirt Tail Peak, Gambit offers exposed and sustained crack and face climbing in a more “alpine” setting- the topout is the highpoint of Eldorado Canyon State Park and has the best views in the area.

Ruper: Rated 5.8+, 6 pitches:
Yet another Eldo ultra-classic, and one on many climber’s bucket list. After an intricate, technical approach, Ruper climbs a pitch to the infamous Ruper Crack, a steep wide crack and corner with a lot of air underfoot. Next is the notoriously exposed Ruper Traverse, which leads to Redgarden’s Upper Ramp. Now only three more pitches of some of the best climbing of the grade anywhere!

The Yellow Spur: Rated 5.9+ or 5.10 (depending on finish), 6 pitches:
This is the one Eldo climb that most visiting climbers who climb the grade want to tick, and for good reason. Pitch after pitch of exposed and varied climbing lead to the delicate crux “pin ladder” pitch, with 400 feet of air beneath your climbing shoes. Our guides agree: the Yellow Spur is a “Top Ten” climb on the lifetime list!

Outer Space: Rated 5.10, 4 pitches (including the Bastille Crack start):
Appropriately named, Outer Space blasts off from the Bastille Crack into dead-vertical terrain, climbing a technical dihedral on pitch one, and the Bastille’s headwall on the second pitch. This is about as good as 5.10 rock climbing gets!

The Naked Edge: Rated 5.11, 5 pitches:
A contender for the most-famous “hard-person” route in the United States, the “Edge” takes on the soaring, knife-edge prow of Redgarden’s Tower Two. Every pitch is airy, complex, and challenging. The final two pitches are some of the most spectacular climbing imaginable, and feature a “bombay” chimney and a very strenuous boulder problem and overhanging hand crack. A must-do!

Eldorado Canyon State Park Authorized Climbing Guide Service

Meeting location:

Colorado Mountain School
633 S. Broadway St.
Boulder, CO 80305

Lodging:

With a sixteen-bed lodge available exclusively to Colorado Mountain School students, course participants are welcome to reserve a bed, but should be aware that there course meets each morning in Boulder or Denver – approximately a 50 -70 minute drive from our lodge.  Our lodge is located in downtown Estes Park with a full kitchen, WiFi and hot showers. Lodging must be booked separately for $44.22/night (tax included).  Please call our office for reservations.

Notes:

All of our courses can be run as private outings.  If you’re interested in a course, but it doesn’t fit into your schedule, please check out our private guiding options.

All Upcoming Dates and Locations:

  • June 25, 2023 - June 25, 2023 - Eldorado Canyon Classic Climb - Eldorado Springs, Colorado
  • September 23, 2023 - September 23, 2023 - Eldorado Canyon Classic Climb - Eldorado Springs, Colorado
  • October 21, 2023 - October 21, 2023 - Eldorado Canyon Classic Climb - Eldorado Springs, Colorado

Prerequisites:

5.6 climber with multi-pitch experience. For those without experience climbing multi-pitch terrain, a Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing course or Custom Instruction is required.

Time:

8:00am - 4:00pm

Duration:

8 hours

Maximum Ratio:

3:1

Minimum Age:

Please call to register participants under 18
Experience Level

Intermediate

Activity Level

Moderate

Category

Rock Climbing

Duration

One-Day

Includes:

  • Trained and/or certified guide
  • Group climbing gear
    • Technical hardware – climbing protection, carabiners,etc
    • Ropes
    • Technical softgoods – slings, cordellette, etc
  • Personal climbing gear
    • Harness
    • Helmet
    • Rock shoes

Excludes:

  • Food
  • Transportation
  • Lodging
  • Clothing, backpack and non-technical personal items
  • Park Entrance Fee
  • Rescue Insurance
  • Trip Insurance
  • Gratuity
  • Expenses due to unforeseen circumstances beyond the control of Colorado Mountain School

Item Description Quantity Example Purchase At Rent At Equipment Type
Approach Shoes

These are “hiking” shoes specifically made for approaching and descending from a climbing venue where scrambling is necessary, or even for climbing an entire route. They have sticky climbing rubber on the bottom and a formed fit to influence better climbing abilities while scrambling. Consider high-tops for additional ankles support if needed. Regular hiking boots or athletic shoes may be acceptable for many climbs.

1

Men: La Sportiva TX3 Men
Women: La Sportiva TX3 Wmn

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Athletic Tape

Roll of 1.5-2″ tape; These are best found at rock climbing gyms or shops such as Neptune Mountaineering. Not all tape works well for climbing – gear shops have usually identified a brand that works well – the local pharmacy has not.

1

Neptune Mountaineering

Optional
Backpack: 18-25 liter

This small pack is carries one’s approach shoes, water, food, extra layers, and toilet kit on the route. This pack should close completely so that no items can fall out.

1

CAMP M2 20L

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Belay and Rappel Device

Plaquette style devices with auto-block mode are ideal.

1

CAMP Piu 2

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Belay Gloves

Leather gloves, either full fingered or fingerless. These protect your hands from rope wear when belaying or rappelling and keep your hands warm at belays.

1

CAMP Axion

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Chalk Bag

Holds climbing chalk, which is usually made from Magnesium Carbonate. This is the same compound that gymnasts, weightlifters, and other athletes will put on their hands in order to improve friction and grip.

1

CAMP Patabang

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Climbing Harness

UIAA or CE approved; With belay loop and gear loops. The waist belt should fit over multiple layers of clothing.

1

CAMP Laser CR

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School

Equipment
Climbing Pants, Shorts or Capris

For all seasons, cotton, loose-fitting (or tight, stretchy) pants are usually acceptable for rock climbing. Shorts are acceptable during the summer – though shorts expose the knees and shins to abrasions. New climbers are encouraged to wear pants or capris. A synthetic material (like in softshell pants) may be required by your guide due to potential rain storms.

1

Men: Rab Sawtooth
Women: Rab Womens Sawtooth

Rab Stores

Clothing
Cotton Socks

Cotton Socks are acceptable for most rock climbing days. Synthetic and merino wool socks tend to be too hot and make climber’s feet sweat excessively.

1

Point 6 Socks

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Face Mask – PPE

Should be made with at least two layers of fabric. Your mask needs to cover your nose and mouth without large gaps. The mask should have ear loops or ties so you can adjust it. Look for a mask with a bendable border at the top so you can mold the mask to fit the bridge of your nose and prevent your glasses from fogging.

2 Clothing
Food

Proper lunches that are prepared ahead of time are recommended (sandwich, burrito, leftover pizza, etc), along with an assortment of snack bars, gels, or trail mixes. Feeze-dried meals are acceptable on overnight trips, but not day trips.

1

Made in Nature, Thrive Tribe

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Lightweight Baselayer Top

Synthetic or Merino Wool; Worn against the skin and is considered a “wicking” layer that facilitates the movement of moisture away from the skin and through the layers. Hooded base layers add extra versatility.

2

Men: Rab Syncrino Base LS Tee
Women: Rab Syncrino Base LS Tee

Rab

Clothing
Lip ScreenSPF 15 or higher.

Non-SPF rated lip balms can actually increase your chances of getting burned.

1

Rocky Mountain Sunscreen Lip Balm

Neptune Mountaineering

Optional
Long and Short Sleeve T-shirt

Cotton or Synthetic and Merino Wool; Bring a variety of short-sleeve or tank tops, and a few long-sleeve. Synthetic shirts are not required, but many prefer the feel and quick-dry performance. If your program includes crack climbing, a long sleeve cotton shirt adds a layer of comfort.

1

Rab Mantle Tee

Rab Store

Clothing
Midweight Baselayer Top

Synthetic or Merino Wool; Adds extra warmth and protection from the cold and wind without creating a moisture barrier as a jacket would. Having at least one base layer that is hooded adds versatility, protecting the neck and ears from cold winds.

1

Men: Rab Ascendor Light Hoodie
Women: Rab Ascendor Light Hoodie

Rab

Clothing
Rock Climbing Helmet

UIAA/CE approved; Should be large enough to fit over a beanie. Plastic helmets are more durable, but heavier. Foam helmets are lighter, but more easily damaged when carried in a pack.

1

CAMP Titan

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School

Equipment
Rock Climbing Shoes

Technical rock shoes are required. For beginning climbers, having a looser fit is advisable. In this case, loose means that toes are touching the front of the shoes when standing, but are not forced against the front of the shoe. In colder weather, thin socks inside climbing shoes are a great option. On long routes, rock shoes should be comfortable enough to wear for day.

1

La Sportiva TC Pro

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School; Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Smartphone

Great for taking photos and videos. Smartphone batteries tend to shut down in freezing temps – keep your phone in a warm inner layer. A tether is ideal in the mountains to protet against dropping your phone.

1 Optional
Softshell and Fleece Jacket

Water-resistant, windproof, yet it “breaths,” which means it allows moisture to move through. Hoods are ideal. There are multiple thicknesses of Softshell jackets. A lightweight or medium-weight jacket is preferred. Fleece jackets are acceptable.

1

Men: Rab VR Summit Jacket
Women: Rab VR Summit Jacket

Rab

Clothing
Sports Bra

Provides support and allows for full range of motion

1

North Face Beyond the Wall

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Sun Hat

A billed hat to keep the bright mountain sun at bay.

1

Rab Trucker Logo Cap

Rab

Clothing
Sunglasses

“Wrap-Around” style sunglasses with 100% UV Protection.

1

Julbo Shield

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
SunscreenSPF 30 or higher.

Travel size.

1

Rocky Mountain Sunscreen SPF 50

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Water Bottles

1 liter bottles are the standard. Bladders such as Camelbacks and Platypus are acceptable for above freezing temps, but only in conjunction with another bottle. Bladders are not acceptable during sub freezing temps. Sports drinks are also acceptable.

2

Nalgene, Hydro Flask

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Waterproof Shell Jacket

Non-insulated, Gore-Tex, Dermizax, Event, or other waterproofing system is required. Mostly, this jacket sits in the bottom of your pack and comes out when the weather gets nasty with precipitation. This jacket should fit over all other layers.

1

Men: Rab Khroma Cirque GORE-TEX Jacket
Women: Rab Women’s Khroma Cirque GORE-TEX Jacket

Rab

Clothing

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