Lumpy Ridge Classic Climb

The scenic Lumpy Ridge escarpment offers classic granite crack and face climbing just minutes from Estes Park, with routes of all difficulties up to five-pitches long. This granite playground is the perfect summer venue, with varied climbing, interesting approaches and descents, and spectacular views of the high peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park. Come climb with us on famous cliffs like Sundance Buttress, The Book, The Pear and Twin Owls! And while Lumpy is a well-known destination climbing area, it is also the perfect venue to acclimatize at before heading to higher alpine routes on Spearhead, the Petit Grepon, or any other objective that CMS guides in Rocky Mountain National Park.

The Twin Owls

The well-named Twin Owls formation is an icon of the Lumpy Ridge skyline. Some of Lumpy’s best crack climbs are here, including the burly Wolf’s Tooth (5.8+), and the notorious Crack of Fear (5.10+). This is a great crag at which to improve one’s wide crack technique – we often climb here for our Offwidth/Crack Climbing classes. For a great Diamond training day, we recommend Conad’s Gonads (5.9) to Wolf’s Tooth (5.8+), followed by Yosemite Crack (5.9-), Rooster Tail (5.9+) and Cackle Crack (5.8). The Twin Owls also offers a classic summit objective, and one of Lumpy’s nicest moderates, the historic Pin Route (5.5), which includes the infamous “Bowels of the Owls” descent.

The Book

Perhaps most famous for the striking J-Crack (5.9+), The Book is one of Lumpy’s largest and most complex cliffs. Every route here is worth doing, from classics on the Left Book like White Whale (5.7) and Hiatus (5.7), to Pear Buttress (5.8), Melvin’s Wheel (5.8), Fantasy Ridge (5.9), or the stout Thindependence/J-Crack/Cheap Date/Outlander link-up (5.10) on the main wall. This is perfect “mileage” terrain, and a great place to fine-tune multi-pitch rope management systems.

Sundance Buttress

The most remote and largest cliff on Lumpy Ridge, a climb on Sundance is a full-day endeavor, requiring an early start, good fitness, and efficient climbing. Some of Lumpy’s most renown routes are found here, climbs like the historic Kor’s Flake (5.7) with it’s offwidth crux, or the sustained Mainliner (5.9), a directissima up the center of the face. A climb on Sundance is a memorable experience and a great stepping stone to longer routes in the high peaks like Great Dihedral on Hallett Peak (5.7) or the Northeast Ridge of Spearhead (5.7).

This is only a sampling of the great climbing at Lumpy Ridge. Come see for yourself why Lumpy is one of Colorado’s best rock climbing areas!

Batman and Robin: Batman and Robin summits the exposed Batman Pinnacle, a mini-Petit Grepon – and exciting and inspiring climb.
Area Information: Batman Pinnacle
Rating: 5.6
Pitches: 3

J-Crack: One of the most sought after climbs at Lumpy Ridge –  a must-do crack climb with a friction crux on the third pitch.
Area Information: The Book
Rating: 5.9
Pitches: 5-6

Kor’s Flake: A moderate classic on the largest cliff in the sub-alpine.  Kor’s offers diverse climbing and frightening exposure. The fourth pitch is superb.
Area Information: Sundance Buttress
Rating: 5.9
Pitches: 5

Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe: Truly odd name, truly great climb. One can walk off after the second pitch or summit the dome. Mostly moderate slab climbing with a few harder moves passing roofs.
Area Information: The Pear
Rating: 5.7
Pitches: 5

Mainliner: A fantastic route, with crux moves involving a wide stem off opposing corners.  Mainliner features diverse climbing—from thin edges, to fingers, to hand and fist jams – this is a spectacular rock climb.
Area Information: Sundance Buttress
Rating: 5.9
Pitches: 5+

Osiris: Much harder and more strenuous than White Whale. The first pitch chimney (rated 5.6) makes you earn the wonderful crux—twin finger cracks through a bulge.
Area Information: The Book
Rating: 5.7
Pitches: 4

Pear Buttress: Every climb on this part of the Book is superb. Pear Buttress features a thin slab start, followed by laybacks and hand jams—great for tuning your technique or just running a lap. Pear Buttress is the most sought after climb at Lumpy Ridge – a must-do.
Area Information: The Book
Rating: 5.8
Pitches: 5

White Whale: A superb climb on fantastic rock. Very aesthetic movement on finger cracks and slabs.
Area Information: Left Book
Rating: 5.7
Pitches: 3

Fat City Crack: A left-leaning hand crack first pitch leads to a finger crack/chimney/overhang second pitch to a lieback crack third pitch.  From here, climbers get to choose any number of exit pitches. Not to be missed.
Area Information: The Book
Rating: 5.10c
Pitches: 4

Colorado Mountain School
341 Moraine Avenue
Estes Park, CO 80517

With a sixteen-bed lodge available, Colorado Mountain School provides students the opportunity to spend their entire stay in Estes Park without the hassle of commuting. Our lodge is conveniently located in downtown Estes Park and features a full kitchen, WiFi and hot showers. Reserve a bed now for just $40 per night (plus tax).