Mooses Tooth, Alaska

Mooses Tooth, Alaska Range, 10,335′
Alaska Grade 3+, 5.9, AI 4
Elevation Gain: 2,800 ft

Ham and Eggs is one of the most coveted climbs in the Alaska Range. This stunning line ascends the most logical route on the Mooses Tooth. Due to its spectacular snow, ice, and mixed climbing, Ham and Eggs has become one of the premiere alpine routes in the country. Colorado Mountain School has been guiding in the Alaska Range for over twenty years – hiring us is the best way to ensure you get the most out of your Alaskan adventure and enjoy this iconic objective.

Ham and Eggs, Moose's Tooth Base Camp

Course Details

Prerequisites:

Experience with complex glacier travel, ability to climb sustained snow and ice up to 90 degrees with two tools, comfort climbing mixed rock to 5.9, excellent physical fitness, and significant experience on steep ice and alpine routes.

Time:

8 days

Price includes & Excludes:

AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide, glacier flights to and from Talkeetna to the Root Canal, all group gear, all meals while in the field, and lodging (bunkhouse style) for one night in Talkeetna when we come off the glacier.

Meeting location:

Talkeetna, Alaska

Details:

A Note on Ability Level

Our Ham and Eggs climb is for experienced ice and mixed climbers. This ascent requires efficient climbing on pitches of vertical ice and mixed up to AI 4 M4, while wearing a pack. Climbers must be able to sustain these difficulties for up to twelve hours, and should expect up to a twenty hour day of climbing and descending - with the potential for a bivy. We keep our Ham and Eggs ratio low so we can move through the cruxes efficiently and optimize our potential for success on this challenging objective.

Clients often prepare for this trip by climbing Alexander's Chimney to Kiener's Route in Rocky Mountain National Park. They also perfect their ice and mixed climbing skills at Vail or in RMNP on climbs like the West Gully, All Mixed Up, and Mixed Emotions. We are happy to set up these outings for you to help you prep for Ham and Eggs.

High up climbing on Ham and Eggs

Equipment List:

This expedition starts and ends in Talkeetna, AK. Direct flights are available daily to Anchorage. From Anchorage, you can get to Talkeetna by car, rail, air, or motor-coach. If you need help making your reservations, we are happy to help. For more information on logistics and planning your arrival in Talkeetna please contact the Expedition Manager.Talkeetna, Alaska

Sample Itinerary:

We meet in Talkeetna, Alaska - a small, historic, and funky mountain town that comes alive with climbers each summer. After sorting gear, food, and packing up, we board a ski-plane and fly up the heart of the Ruth Gorge to the Root Canal Glacier. Here, we establish a comfortable base camp just below the route. We start by warming up on one of the sub-peaks of the Moose's Tooth to evaluate conditions and practice our skills while moving efficiently as a team. Then, when the weather agrees, we attempt the route, ascending 3000' of ice, snow, and mixed terrain to the summit of the Moose's Tooth.

Day 1: Meet in Talkeetna, AK - fly to Root Canal base camp.

Days 2 - 7: Settle in, warm up and climb Ham and Eggs.

Day 7:  Fly back to Talkeetna, have a celebratory meal, shower, and reminisce!

Day 8: Trip ends in Talkeetna - travel to Anchorage and back home!

Please note, we have  extra days of climbing on the glacier scheduled to help us accommodate things like weather and glacier flights. Sometimes conditions do not permit ski-planes to land on the Route Canal and climbers need to approach from the Ruth Gorge, adding a day of approach time. The itinerary is always subject to change due to to unforeseen difficulties such as weather, illness, conditions, etc.

Tents below Bradley

Notes:

Expedition Cancellation Policy:

  •      A non-refundable $250 application fee will not be refunded from your initial deposit.
  •      100% (minus application fee) will be refunded 121 days prior to trip start.
  •      50% (minus application fee) will be refunded 91 to 120 days before trip start.
  •      25% (minus application fee) will be refunded 46 to 90 days before trip start.
  •      0% will be refunded 0 to 45 days before trip start.