Peak 11,300, Alaska Range
Alaska Grade 4, 5.9, AI 3
Elevation Gain: 4,100 ft
Just because a peak doesn’t have a name, doesn’t mean it is an unworthy objective. Such is the case with Peak 11,300 – Steve House’s favorite climb in the classic tick list, “Fifty Favorite climbs.” This high end objective offers superb ridge climbing, steep snow and ice, and great mixed climbing – all with the best backdrop possible. Situated between the West and Northwest forks of the Ruth Glacier, Peak 11,300 holds some of the best views in the Alaska Range. You will not be disappointed with this modern day alpine classic.
A Note on Ability Level
Peak 11,300 is for experienced ice and mixed climbers. This ascent requires efficient climbing on pitches of vertical ice and mixed up to AI 3 while wearing an overnight pack. Climbers must be able to sustain these difficulties for up to twelve hours, and should expect up to a twenty hour day of climbing and descending - with a bivy on route. We keep our ratio low so we can move through the cruxes efficiently and optimize our potential for success on this challenging objective.
Clients often prepare for this trip by climbing Alexander's Chimney to Kiener's Route in Rocky Mountain National Park. They also perfect their ice and mixed climbing skills at Vail or in RMNP on climbs like the West Gully, All Mixed Up, and Mixed Emotions. We are happy to set up these outings for you to help you prep for Peak 11,300.
Experience with complex glacier travel, ability to climb sustained snow and ice up to 90 degrees with two tools while wearing a pack, comfort climbing mixed rock to 5.8, excellent physical fitness, and significant experience on steep ice and rock in boots.
Price includes & Excludes:
AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide, glacier flights to and from Talkeetna to the glacier, all group gear, all meals while in the field, and lodging (bunkhouse style) for one night in Talkeetna when we come off the glacier.
This expedition starts and ends in Talkeetna, AK. Direct flights are available daily to Anchorage. From Anchorage, you can get to Talkeetna by car, rail, air, or motor-coach. If you need help making your reservations, we are happy to help. For more information on logistics and planning your arrival in Talkeetna please contact the Expedition Manager.
We meet in Talkeetna, Alaska - a small, historic, and funky mountain town that comes alive with climbers each summer. After sorting gear, food, and packing up, we board a ski-plane and fly up the heart of the Ruth Gorge. If weather permits, we can get dropped off at the west fork at the base of the route. Here, we establish a comfortable base camp just below the route. We start by warming up on a sub-peak in order to evaluate conditions and practice our skills while moving efficiently as a team. Then, when the weather agrees, we attempt the route, ascending 4,100 feet of snow, ice, and rock.
Day 1: Meet in Talkeetna, AK - fly to base camp.
Days 2 - 8: Settle in, warm up and climb Peak 11,300.
Day 9: Fly back to Talkeetna, have a celebratory meal, shower, and reminisce!
Day 10: Trip ends in Talkeetna - travel to Anchorage and back home!
Please note, we have extra days of climbing on the glacier scheduled to help us accommodate things like weather and glacier flights. If conditions do not permit ski-planes to land at the base of the route,climbers need to approach from the Ruth Gorge, adding a day of approach time. The itinerary is always subject to change due to to unforeseen difficulties such as weather, illness, conditions, etc.
Expedition Cancellation Policy:
- A non-refundable $250 application fee will not be refunded from your initial deposit.
- 100% (minus application fee) will be refunded 121 days prior to trip start.
- 50% (minus application fee) will be refunded 91 to 120 days before trip start.
- 25% (minus application fee) will be refunded 46 to 90 days before trip start.
- 0% will be refunded 0 to 45 days before trip start.