Overview:

Escape winter with a climbing trip to Mexico!  Join us for a completely unique rock climbing experience to central Mexico, led by CMS guides Bernardo Beteta, a Mexican native and Steve Levin, AMGA Certified Rock Guide. Visit several areas far off the U.S. climber radar, including the world class sport crags of Jilotepec, the spectacular Pena de Bernal (the third-largest rock monolith in the world), and the historic basalt cracks of Aculco Canyon. This is an all-inclusive guided tour, featuring a mix of rock climbing and Mexican culture.  This one-of-a-kind trip was designed for the climber looking for a very different climbing holiday!

We’ll begin the trip by picking you up at the Mexico City airport. After a night in the upscale Polanco district, we’ll drive in our van north into the heart of colonial Mexico. You can relax as we take all of the worry and hassle out of Mexican travel. Driving distances are kept to a minimum, hotel stays are comfortable, and the authentic Mexican cuisine is outstanding. We will tailor the climbing to your experience and background, whether sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing or crack climbing.  We’ll enjoy a rest day in San Miguel de Allende, a UNESCO World Heritage city, enjoying hot springs, craft markets, cobblestone streets, and an authentic Oaxaca dinner and artisanal mescal tasting. No other guide service offers a trip like this, and it would be difficult to do this on your own!

Read a full report on our rock climbing trip to Mexico in 2016 in Dougald Macdonald’s article in Climbing Magazine: Mexico Rocks! Exploring 5 Crags Near Mexico City.

Steve and Bernardo,
One last opportunity to thank you for your leadership, instruction, humanity and care while we were in Mexico.  I think I can speak for everyone when stating that this has been more than a climbing vacation.  Rather, it was a life changing enhancement to us all, physically, culturally and emotionally.  Again, thank you very much.
Your friend – Jim

 

Prerequisites:

We recommend that you are able to follow 5.8 rock climbs and have some outdoor climbing experience, although it’s not required. The areas we visit offer a wide range of climbing difficulties, and we can accommodate climbers of all abilities, from motivated novice to experienced shredder.

Duration:

12 Days

Maximum Ratio:

6:1

Minimum Age:

18

Meeting location:

Mexico City, Mexico

Details:

Frequently Asked Questions:

What about drinking the water?
We supply bottled water, so bring a couple of water bottles to refill and plan on staying hydrated! One can also drink fresh-squeezed juices, the traditional horchata, and bottled sodas.

How long are the driving times?
We try to minimize time spent driving, with an average of 1.5 to 2.5 hours from location to location, not including stops. Traffic around Mexico City is unpredictable; however we avoid rush hour driving if possible.

What about cash and documents?
You will only need cash for souvenirs and alcoholic beverages – we take care of everything else. ATM machines are common if you prefer not to carry much cash. You will need a valid U.S. passport, and a tourist card (available on your plane before arriving in Mexico).

Notes:

Expedition Cancellation Policy:

  •      A non-refundable $250 application fee will not be refunded from your initial deposit.
  •      100% (minus application fee) will be refunded 121 days prior to trip start.
  •      50% (minus application fee) will be refunded 91 to 120 days before trip start.
  •      25% (minus application fee) will be refunded 46 to 90 days before trip start.
  •      0% will be refunded 0 to 45 days before trip start.

Day 1: Arrive in Mexico City. Dinner and orientation in Polanco district.
Day 2: Breakfast in Polanco, then drive to Jilotepec and climb. Stay in Jilotepec.
Day 3: Climb at Jilotepec in the morning, then drive to Bernal.
Day 4: Climb multi-pitch to the summit of Pena de Bernal. Dine and lodge in Bernal.
Day 5: Climb at Pena de Bernal in the morning, then drive to San Miguel de Allende.
Day 6: Breakfast and free time (we offer an optional tour through town) in San Miguel de Allende. Then soaking in La Gruta hot spring followed by dinner and mescal tasting. Stay in San Miguel de Allende.
Day 7: Climb at the volcanic tuft crags of La Bufa, then visit the market and dine in historic Guanajuato. Return to San Miguel de Allende.
Day 8: Breakfast in San Miguel de Allende, then drive to climbing at Aculco Canyon. Stay in colonial Aculco.
Day 9: Breakfast and morning climbing in Aculco, then drive to the pyramids outside of Mexico City. Evening celebration dinner in Polanco.
Day 10: Breakfast in Polanco. Taxi or van to the airport and flights home.
Days 11-12 (optional): Climbing at the basalt trad and sport crags of Los Dinamos just outside Mexico City.

Price Includes:

Rock climbing guiding, ground transportation, food (excluding alcoholic beverages), lodging, and entrance fees.

Item Description Quantity Example Purchase At Rent At Equipment Type
Approach Shoes

These are “hiking” shoes specifically made for approaching and descending from a climbing venue where scrambling is necessary, or even for climbing an entire route. They have sticky climbing rubber on the bottom and a formed fit to influence better climbing abilities while scrambling. Consider high-tops for additional ankles support if needed. Regular hiking boots or athletic shoes may be acceptable for many climbs.

1

Men: La Sportiva TX3 Men
Women: La Sportiva TX3 Wmn

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Backpack: 18-25 liter

This small pack is carries one’s approach shoes, water, food, extra layers, and toilet kit on the route. This pack should close completely so that no items can fall out.

1

CAMP M2 20L

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Belay Gloves

Leather gloves, either full fingered or fingerless. These protect your hands from rope wear when belaying or rappelling and keep your hands warm at belays.

1

CAMP Axion

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Belay/Rappel Device

Plaquette style devices with auto-block mode are ideal.

1

CAMP Piu 2

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Climbing Harness

UIAA/CE approved; With belay loop and gear loops. The waist belt should fit over multiple layers of clothing.

1

CAMP Laser CR

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School

Equipment
Climbing Pants, Shorts or Capris

For all seasons, cotton, loose-fitting (or tight, stretchy) pants are usually acceptable for rock climbing. Shorts are acceptable during the summer - though shorts expose the knees and shins to abrasions. New climbers are encouraged to wear pants or capris. A synthetic material (like in softshell pants) may be required by your guide due to potential rain storms.

1

Men: Rab Vapour Rise
Women: Rab Upslope

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Cotton Socks

Cotton Socks are acceptable for most rock climbing days. Synthetic and merino wool socks tend to be too hot and make climber’s feet sweat excessively.

1

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Double-length Sewn Runner

48" or 120cm. Used for rappelling, making leashes, and improvised rescue.

1-2

CAMP 11mm Express Dyneema

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
First Aid Kit

Your guide will have an emergency First Aid Kit. You should bring a small kit including blister prevention and care products such as a role of athletic tape and Moleskin. Your kit should also contain a few Band-aids, some Tylenol and Ibuprofen.

1

Neptune Mountaineering

Optional
Food

Proper lunches that are prepared ahead of time are recommended (sandwich, burrito, leftover pizza, etc), along with an assortment of snack bars, gels, and/or trail mixes. Feeze-dried meals are acceptable on overnight trips, but not day trips.

1

Made in Nature, Thrive Tribe

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Headlamp

Load with fresh batteries. Critical for hiking before sunrise and great to have in the pack in case you are caught out after dark.

1

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Lightweight Baselayer Top

Synthetic or Merino Wool; Worn against the skin and is considered a "wicking" layer that facilitates the movement of moisture away from the skin and through the layers. Hooded base layers add extra versatility.

2

Men Rab Merino 120 Long Sleeve
Women Rab Merino 120 Long Sleeve

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Lip ScreenSPF 15 or higher.

Non-SPF rated lip balms can actually increase your chances of getting burned.

1

Rocky Mountain Sunscreen Lip Balm

Neptune Mountaineering

Optional
Long/Short Sleeve T-shirt

Cotton &/or Synthetic/Merino Wool; Bring a variety of short-sleeve or tank tops, and a few long-sleeve. Long sleeve cotton t-shirts can be nice for the crack climbing days. Synthetic shirts are not required for rock climbing, but some may prefer the feel and quick-dry performance.

1

Rab Route Tee

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Midweight Baselayer Top

Synthetic or Merino Wool; Adds extra warmth and protection from the cold and wind without creating a moisture barrier as a jacket would. Having at least one base layer that is hooded adds versatility, protecting the neck and ears from cold winds.

1

Men Rab Merino 160 Hoody
Women Rab Merino 160 Long Sleeve

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Neck Gaiter

"Buffs" are quite versatile in their uses. They can be used as light beanies, neck warmers, and can offer face protection from the cold wind or sun.

1

BCA Neck Tube

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Non-locking Carabiners

Most climbers prefer wire-gated carabiners due to their light weight and low bulk, among other useful characteristics.

2-3

CAMP Nano 22

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Pajamas

It can be nice to have something clean to change into each night for sleeping in your sleeping bag.

1 Clothing
Personal Care Items

Medications, glasses/contacts, feminine products, etc.

1 Optional
Personal Toilet Kit

At minimum, bring a small Ziploc with toilet paper. Consider bringing a travel sized package of hand-wipes. Idealy, purchase, or for free from the RMNP Backcountry office, bring a "Rest Stop." The Rest Stop, known as "Blue Bags" in the Pacific Northwest, or the "Wag Bag" in other areas, are poop-in-a-bag systems that include toilet paper and a sanitizing hand wipe.

1

Neptune Mountaineering

Optional
Prussik Cord

1m of 6mm nylon accessory cord. Tech cord (kevlar, spectra) is not acceptable.

2

Sterling HollowBlock

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Rock Climbing Helmet

UIAA/CE approved; Should be large enough to fit over a beanie. Plastic helmets are more durable, but heavier. Foam helmets are lighter, but more easily damaged when carried in a pack.

1

CAMP Titan

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School

Equipment
Smartphone

Great for taking photos and videos. Smartphone batteries tend to shut down in freezing temps - keep your phone in a warm inner layer. A tether is ideal in the mountains to protet against dropping your phone.

1 Optional
Softshell/Fleece Jacket

Water-resistant, windproof, yet it "breaths," which means it allows moisture to move through. Hoods are ideal. There are multiple thicknesses of Softshell jackets. A lightweight or medium-weight jacket is preferred. Fleece jackets are acceptable.

1

Men: Rab Alpha Direct
Women: Rab Alpha Direct

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Sports Bra

Provides support and allows for full range of motion

1

North Face Beyond the Wall

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Sun Hat

A billed hat to keep the sun at bay during the approach and descent.

1

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Sunglasses

"Wrap-Around" style sunglasses with 100% UV Protection.

1

Julbo Stunt

Julbo

Equipment
SunscreenSPF 30 or higher.

Travel size.

1

Rocky Mountain Sunscreen SPF 50

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Toiletries

Bring enough for the trip. Toothpaste & brush, floss, deoderant, lotion, eye drops, wet wipes, hand sanitizer, etc.

1 Optional
Water Bottles

1 liter bottles are the standard. Bladders such as Camelbacks and Platypus are acceptable for above freezing temps, but only in conjunction with another bottle. Bladders are not acceptable during sub freezing temps. Sports drinks are also acceptable.

2

Nalgene, Hydro Flask

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Waterproof Shell Jacket

Non-insulated, Gore-Tex, Dermizax, Event, or other waterproofing system is required. Mostly, this jacket sits in the bottom of your pack and comes out when the weather gets nasty with precipitation. This jacket should fit over all other layers.

1

Men: RAB Latok
Women: RAB Latok

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing