Overview:

The scenic Lumpy Ridge escarpment offers classic granite crack and face climbing just minutes from Estes Park, with routes of all difficulties up to five-pitches long. This granite playground is the perfect summer venue, with varied climbing, interesting approaches and descents, and spectacular views of the high peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park. Come climb with us on famous cliffs like Sundance Buttress, The Book, The Pear and Twin Owls! And while Lumpy is a well-known destination climbing area, it is also the perfect venue to acclimatize at before heading to higher alpine routes on Spearhead, the Petit Grepon, or any other objective that CMS guides in Rocky Mountain National Park.

The Twin Owls

The well-named Twin Owls formation is an icon of the Lumpy Ridge skyline. Some of Lumpy’s best crack climbs are here, including the burly Wolf’s Tooth (5.8+), and the notorious Crack of Fear (5.10+). This is a great crag at which to improve one’s wide crack technique – we often climb here for our Offwidth/Crack Climbing classes. For a great Diamond training day, we recommend Conad’s Gonads (5.9) to Wolf’s Tooth (5.8+), followed by Yosemite Crack (5.9-), Rooster Tail (5.9+) and Cackle Crack (5.8). The Twin Owls also offers a classic summit objective, and one of Lumpy’s nicest moderates, the historic Pin Route (5.5), which includes the infamous “Bowels of the Owls” descent.

The Book

Perhaps most famous for the striking J-Crack (5.9+), The Book is one of Lumpy’s largest and most complex cliffs. Every route here is worth doing, from classics on the Left Book like White Whale (5.7) and Hiatus (5.7), to Pear Buttress (5.8), Melvin’s Wheel (5.8), Fantasy Ridge (5.9), or the stout Thindependence/J-Crack/Cheap Date/Outlander link-up (5.10) on the main wall. This is perfect “mileage” terrain, and a great place to fine-tune multi-pitch rope management systems.

Sundance Buttress

The most remote and largest cliff on Lumpy Ridge, a climb on Sundance is a full-day endeavor, requiring an early start, good fitness, and efficient climbing. Some of Lumpy’s most renown routes are found here, climbs like the historic Kor’s Flake (5.7) with it’s offwidth crux, or the sustained Mainliner (5.9), a directissima up the center of the face. A climb on Sundance is a memorable experience and a great stepping stone to longer routes in the high peaks like Great Dihedral on Hallett Peak (5.7) or the Northeast Ridge of Spearhead (5.7).

This is only a sampling of the great climbing at Lumpy Ridge. Come see for yourself why Lumpy is one of Colorado’s best rock climbing areas!

Meeting location:

Colorado Mountain School
341 Moraine Avenue
Estes Park, CO 80517

Details:

Batman and Robin: Batman and Robin summits the exposed Batman Pinnacle, a mini-Petit Grepon – and exciting and inspiring climb.
Area Information: Batman Pinnacle
Rating: 5.6
Pitches: 3

J-Crack: One of the most sought after climbs at Lumpy Ridge –  a must-do crack climb with a friction crux on the third pitch.
Area Information: The Book
Rating: 5.9
Pitches: 5-6

Kor’s Flake: A moderate classic on the largest cliff in the sub-alpine.  Kor’s offers diverse climbing and frightening exposure. The fourth pitch is superb.
Area Information: Sundance Buttress
Rating: 5.9
Pitches: 5

Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe: Truly odd name, truly great climb. One can walk off after the second pitch or summit the dome. Mostly moderate slab climbing with a few harder moves passing roofs.
Area Information: The Pear
Rating: 5.7
Pitches: 5

Mainliner: A fantastic route, with crux moves involving a wide stem off opposing corners.  Mainliner features diverse climbing—from thin edges, to fingers, to hand and fist jams – this is a spectacular rock climb.
Area Information: Sundance Buttress
Rating: 5.9
Pitches: 5+

Osiris: Much harder and more strenuous than White Whale. The first pitch chimney (rated 5.6) makes you earn the wonderful crux—twin finger cracks through a bulge.
Area Information: The Book
Rating: 5.7
Pitches: 4

Pear Buttress: Every climb on this part of the Book is superb. Pear Buttress features a thin slab start, followed by laybacks and hand jams—great for tuning your technique or just running a lap. Pear Buttress is the most sought after climb at Lumpy Ridge – a must-do.
Area Information: The Book
Rating: 5.8
Pitches: 5

White Whale: A superb climb on fantastic rock. Very aesthetic movement on finger cracks and slabs.
Area Information: Left Book
Rating: 5.7
Pitches: 3

Fat City Crack: A left-leaning hand crack first pitch leads to a finger crack/chimney/overhang second pitch to a lieback crack third pitch.  From here, climbers get to choose any number of exit pitches. Not to be missed.
Area Information: The Book
Rating: 5.10c
Pitches: 4

Lodging:

With a sixteen-bed lodge available, Colorado Mountain School provides students the opportunity to spend their entire stay in Estes Park without the hassle of commuting. Our lodge is conveniently located in downtown Estes Park and features a full kitchen, WiFi and hot showers. Reserve a bed now for just $40 per night (plus tax).

All Upcoming Dates and Locations:

  • No dates found

Prerequisites:

Experience following a multi-pitch route, ability to hike up to 2 miles with a heavy pack, ability to climb at grade.

Time:

8:00am - 4:00pm

Duration:

8 hours

Maximum Ratio:

3:1

Minimum Age:

Please call to register participants under 18

Includes:

  • Trained and/or certified guide
  • Group climbing gear
    • Technical hardware – climbing protection, carabiners,etc
    • Ropes
    • Technical softgoods – slings, cordellette, etc
  • Personal climbing gear
    • Harness
    • Helmet
    • Rock shoes
  • Park Entrance Fee

Excludes:

  • Food
  • Transportation
  • Lodging
  • Clothing, backpack and non-technical personal items
  • Rescue Insurance
  • Trip Insurance
  • Gratuity
  • Expenses due to unforeseen circumstances beyond the control of Colorado Mountain School
Item Description Quantity Example Purchase At Rent At Equipment Type
Approach Shoes

These are “hiking” shoes specifically made for approaching and descending from a climbing venue where scrambling is necessary, or even for climbing an entire route. They have sticky climbing rubber on the bottom and a formed fit to influence better climbing abilities while scrambling. Consider high-tops for additional ankles support if needed. Regular hiking boots or athletic shoes may be acceptable for many climbs.

1

Men: La Sportiva TX3 Men
Women: La Sportiva TX3 Wmn

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Athletic Tape

Roll of 1.5-2” tape; These are best found at rock climbing gyms or shops such as Neptune Mountaineering. Not all tape works well for climbing - gear shops have usually identified a brand that works well - the local pharmacy has not.

1

Neptune Mountaineering

 

 

Optional
Backpack: 18-25 liter

This small pack is carries one’s approach shoes, water, food, extra layers, and toilet kit on the route. This pack should close completely so that no items can fall out.

1

CAMP M2 20L

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Belay and Rappel Device

Plaquette style devices with auto-block mode are ideal.

1

CAMP Piu 2

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Belay Gloves

Leather gloves, either full fingered or fingerless. These protect your hands from rope wear when belaying or rappelling and keep your hands warm at belays.

1

CAMP Axion

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Chalk Bag

Holds climbing chalk, which is usually made from Magnesium Carbonate. This is the same compound that gymnasts, weightlifters, and other athletes will put on their hands in order to improve friction and grip.

1

CAMP Patabang

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Climbing Harness

UIAA or CE approved; With belay loop and gear loops. The waist belt should fit over multiple layers of clothing.

1

CAMP Laser CR

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School

Equipment
Climbing Pants, Shorts or Capris

For all seasons, cotton, loose-fitting (or tight, stretchy) pants are usually acceptable for rock climbing. Shorts are acceptable during the summer - though shorts expose the knees and shins to abrasions. New climbers are encouraged to wear pants or capris. A synthetic material (like in softshell pants) may be required by your guide due to potential rain storms.

1

Men: Rab Vapour Rise
Women: Rab womens Vapour-rise pants

Rab Stores

Clothing
Cotton Socks

Cotton Socks are acceptable for most rock climbing days. Synthetic and merino wool socks tend to be too hot and make climber’s feet sweat excessively.

1

Point 6 Socks

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Food

Proper lunches that are prepared ahead of time are recommended (sandwich, burrito, leftover pizza, etc), along with an assortment of snack bars, gels, or trail mixes. Feeze-dried meals are acceptable on overnight trips, but not day trips.

1

Made in Nature, Thrive Tribe

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Lightweight Baselayer Top

Synthetic or Merino Wool; Worn against the skin and is considered a "wicking" layer that facilitates the movement of moisture away from the skin and through the layers. Hooded base layers add extra versatility.

2

Men: Rab Forge LS Tee
Women: Rab Force LS Tee

Rab Store

Clothing
Lip ScreenSPF 15 or higher.

Non-SPF rated lip balms can actually increase your chances of getting burned.

1

Rocky Mountain Sunscreen Lip Balm

Neptune Mountaineering

Optional
Midweight Baselayer Top

Synthetic or Merino Wool; Adds extra warmth and protection from the cold and wind without creating a moisture barrier as a jacket would. Having at least one base layer that is hooded adds versatility, protecting the neck and ears from cold winds.

1

Men: Rab Nucleus Hoody
Women: Rab Nucleus Hoody

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Personal Care Items

Medications, glasses or contacts, feminine products, etc.

1 Optional
Rock Climbing Helmet

UIAA/CE approved; Should be large enough to fit over a beanie. Plastic helmets are more durable, but heavier. Foam helmets are lighter, but more easily damaged when carried in a pack.

1

CAMP Titan

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School

Equipment
Rock Climbing Shoes

Technical rock shoes are required. For beginning climbers, having a looser fit is advisable. In this case, loose means that toes are touching the front of the shoes when standing, but are not forced against the front of the shoe. In colder weather, thin socks inside climbing shoes are a great option. On long routes, rock shoes should be comfortable enough to wear for day.

1

La Sportiva TC Pro

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School; Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Smartphone

Great for taking photos and videos. Smartphone batteries tend to shut down in freezing temps - keep your phone in a warm inner layer. A tether is ideal in the mountains to protet against dropping your phone.

1 Optional
Softshell and Fleece Jacket

Water-resistant, windproof, yet it "breaths," which means it allows moisture to move through. Hoods are ideal. There are multiple thicknesses of Softshell jackets. A lightweight or medium-weight jacket is preferred. Fleece jackets are acceptable.

1

Men: Rab Salvo Jacket
Women: Rab Salvo Jacket

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Sports Bra

Provides support and allows for full range of motion

1

North Face Beyond the Wall

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Sun Hat

A billed hat to keep the sun at bay during the approach and descent.

1

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Sunglasses

"Wrap-Around" style sunglasses with 100% UV Protection.

1

Julbo Shield

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
SunscreenSPF 30 or higher.

Travel size.

1

Rocky Mountain Sunscreen SPF 50

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Water Bottles

1 liter bottles are the standard. Bladders such as Camelbacks and Platypus are acceptable for above freezing temps, but only in conjunction with another bottle. Bladders are not acceptable during sub freezing temps. Sports drinks are also acceptable.

2

Nalgene, Hydro Flask

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Waterproof Shell Jacket

Non-insulated, Gore-Tex, Dermizax, Event, or other waterproofing system is required. Mostly, this jacket sits in the bottom of your pack and comes out when the weather gets nasty with precipitation. This jacket should fit over all other layers.

1

Men: RAB Ladakh GTX Jacket
Women: RAB Women's Kangri GRX Jacket

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing

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