Overview:

Video by Henna Taylor


The Mad Sensei Trad Camp is designed for the experienced climber dedicated to meeting their performance edge, Madaleine Sorkin and Justen Sjong (see bios) bring you these multi-day Mental Fitness Camps.  The instruction on this trad camp focuses on gaining confidence in your redpoint and onsight ability.

[Best_Wordpress_Gallery id=”51″ gal_title=”Mad Sensei”]

Photo Credit Henna Taylor @hennataylorfilms

Prerequisites:

Participants should be experienced trad climbers interested in pushing their redpoint and onsight abilities.

Not sure if these camps are right for you? Please call the CMS office at 800-836-4008 or contact Madaleine directly!

Duration:

3 Days; 1 Evening

Maximum Ratio:

3:1

Minimum Age:

Please call to register participants under 18

Details:

Madaleine Sorkin

Madaleine is an elite big wall free climber inspired to continually engage her next big wall and coach climbers to meet theirs. She has established difficult free climbs from California to Kyrgyzstan, redpointing traditional routes at 5.13+ on 35-pitch routes on El Capitan in Yosemite and the Diamond of Longs Peak, Colorado at 14,000 feet. Looking back at any achievement or failure, Madaleine sees her ability to stay committed to a climb as linked to her ability to attend to her emotional and physical body and select appropriate responses to each arising challenge. Madaleine is a certified Rock Guide through the American Mountain Guides Association.  Follow Mad’s adventures at MadaleineSorkin.com.

Justen Sjong

Justen Sjong on The Free Muir 5.13c El Capitan, Yosemtie NP CAFrom establishing the “hardest free big wall” in the world to coaching some of the most successful climbers of their time, Justen Sjong has made his mark in the sport of climbing over the past 25 years of his career. Dubbed ‘The Sensei’ by Climbing Magazine in 2006, Justen continues to help athletes from around the world push their limits. While others seem to approach climbing training with only physical strength in mind, Justen specializes in a holistic approach to seeing performance improvements. From evaluating movement through video analysis and in-person sessions to providing laser-focused training plans that focus on specific skill weaknesses, Justen firmly believes in addressing the entire spectrum of climbing performance: Strength, Mind, and Skill. Justen’s approach isn’t for the faint-hearted. Climbing Sensei coaching programs are geared towards advanced and elite climbers alike looking to realize the impossible in their respective discipline.  Learn more about what The Sensei has done and can do for you at ClimbingSensei.com.

Notes:

Presented by:

Related Documents:

All participants are required to complete the following two Google Forms at the time of registration. This information will help us meet athlete’s goals throughout each camp.

Athlete Information
Expectation Form

PROGRAM GOALS

  • Gain experience performing at your edge of comfort.
  • Apply redpointing and onsighting coaching tips.
  • Gain confidence in your ability with a supportive and professional environment.
  • Make a stronger connection to your climbing partner and express your needs.
  • Practice appropriate responses to challenging situations and behaviors that help you to climb more playfully and with positive mental energy.
  • Express your personality on the wall and embody a more balanced climbing style (e.g. masculine/ feminine).
  • Get to know your superpower! We will cover the pro’s and con’s of each superpower.
  • Learn how best to use the climbing gym and make each trip outside lead you in a direction of growth.
  • Learn to train with a more holistic approach than simply gaining physical strength.

Boulder Trad Climbing Camp

Thursday, May 3:  5 PM – 8 PM:  BRC Session; meet & greet, climbing
Friday, May 4:  8 AM – 5 PM:  Interactive presentation by Justen, outdoor climbing
Saturday, May 5:  8 AM – 5 PM:  Outdoor climbing
Sunday, May 6:  8 AM – 4 PM:  Outdoor climbing


Red Rocks Trad Camp

Thursday, October 18:  5 PM – 8 PM:  Meet & greet, climbing
Friday, October 19:  8 AM – 5 PM:  Interactive presentation by Justen, climbing
Saturday, October 20:  8 AM – 5 PM:  Outdoor climbing
Sunday, October 21:  8 AM – 4 PM:  Outdoor climbing

Price Includes:  Individualized instruction with Certified AMGA Rock Guide Madaleine Sorkin and nationally recognized Climbing Coach Justen Sjong, instructional presentations and slideshows, and lots of time applying skills on the rock.

Each participant will receive a free CAMP harness and carabiner rack pack.

Price Excludes:  Food, water and lodging; participants will be driving/carpooling to crag each day.

Item Description Quantity Example Purchase At Rent At Equipment Type
Approach Shoes

These are “hiking” shoes specifically made for approaching and descending from a climbing venue where scrambling is necessary, or even for climbing an entire route. They have sticky climbing rubber on the bottom and a formed fit to influence better climbing abilities while scrambling. Consider high-tops for additional ankles support if needed. Regular hiking boots or athletic shoes may be acceptable for many climbs.

1

Men: La Sportiva TX3 Men
Women: La Sportiva TX3 Wmn

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Backpack: 18-25 liter

This small pack is carries one’s approach shoes, water, food, extra layers, and toilet kit on the route. This pack should close completely so that no items can fall out.

1

CAMP M2 20L

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Belay/Rappel Device

Plaquette style devices with auto-block mode are ideal.

1

CAMP Piu 2

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Climbing Harness

UIAA/CE approved; With belay loop and gear loops. The waist belt should fit over multiple layers of clothing.

1

CAMP Laser CR

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School

Equipment
Cotton Socks

Cotton Socks are acceptable for most rock climbing days. Synthetic and merino wool socks tend to be too hot and make climber’s feet sweat excessively.

1

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Double-length Sewn Runner

48" or 120cm. Used for rappelling, making leashes, and improvised rescue.

1-2

CAMP 11mm Express Dyneema

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Food

Proper lunches that are prepared ahead of time are recommended (sandwich, burrito, leftover pizza, etc), along with an assortment of snack bars, gels, and/or trail mixes. Feeze-dried meals are acceptable on overnight trips, but not day trips.

1

Made in Nature, Thrive Tribe

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Lightweight Baselayer Top

Synthetic or Merino Wool; Worn against the skin and is considered a "wicking" layer that facilitates the movement of moisture away from the skin and through the layers. Hooded base layers add extra versatility.

2

Men Rab Merino 120 Long Sleeve
Women Rab Merino 120 Long Sleeve

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Lip ScreenSPF 15 or higher.

Non-SPF rated lip balms can actually increase your chances of getting burned.

1

Rocky Mountain Sunscreen Lip Balm

Neptune Mountaineering

Optional
Long/Short Sleeve T-shirt

Cotton &/or Synthetic/Merino Wool; Bring a variety of short-sleeve or tank tops, and a few long-sleeve. Long sleeve cotton t-shirts can be nice for the crack climbing days. Synthetic shirts are not required for rock climbing, but some may prefer the feel and quick-dry performance.

1

Rab Route Tee

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Midweight Baselayer Top

Synthetic or Merino Wool; Adds extra warmth and protection from the cold and wind without creating a moisture barrier as a jacket would. Having at least one base layer that is hooded adds versatility, protecting the neck and ears from cold winds.

1

Men Rab Merino 160 Hoody
Women Rab Merino 160 Long Sleeve

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Prussik Cord

1m of 6mm nylon accessory cord. Tech cord (kevlar, spectra) is not acceptable.

2

Sterling HollowBlock

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Rock Climbing Helmet

UIAA/CE approved; Should be large enough to fit over a beanie. Plastic helmets are more durable, but heavier. Foam helmets are lighter, but more easily damaged when carried in a pack.

1

CAMP Titan

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School

Equipment
Rock Climbing Shoes

Technical rock shoes are required. For beginning climbers, having a looser fit is advisable. In this case, loose means that toes are touching the front of the shoes when standing, but are not forced against the front of the shoe. In colder weather, thin socks inside climbing shoes are a great option. On long routes, rock shoes should be comfortable enough to wear for day.

1

La Sportiva TC Pro

Neptune Mountaineering

Colorado Mountain School; Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Smartphone

Great for taking photos and videos. Smartphone batteries tend to shut down in freezing temps - keep your phone in a warm inner layer. A tether is ideal in the mountains to protet against dropping your phone.

1 Optional
Softshell/Fleece Jacket

Water-resistant, windproof, yet it "breaths," which means it allows moisture to move through. Hoods are ideal. There are multiple thicknesses of Softshell jackets. A lightweight or medium-weight jacket is preferred. Fleece jackets are acceptable.

1

Men: Rab Alpha Direct
Women: Rab Alpha Direct

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Sports Bra

Provides support and allows for full range of motion

1

North Face Beyond the Wall

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Sun Hat

A billed hat to keep the sun at bay during the approach and descent.

1

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing
Sunglasses

"Wrap-Around" style sunglasses with 100% UV Protection.

1

Julbo Stunt

Julbo

Equipment
SunscreenSPF 30 or higher.

Travel size.

1

Rocky Mountain Sunscreen SPF 50

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Water Bottles

1 liter bottles are the standard. Bladders such as Camelbacks and Platypus are acceptable for above freezing temps, but only in conjunction with another bottle. Bladders are not acceptable during sub freezing temps. Sports drinks are also acceptable.

2

Nalgene, Hydro Flask

Neptune Mountaineering

Equipment
Waterproof Shell Jacket

Non-insulated, Gore-Tex, Dermizax, Event, or other waterproofing system is required. Mostly, this jacket sits in the bottom of your pack and comes out when the weather gets nasty with precipitation. This jacket should fit over all other layers.

1

Men: RAB Latok
Women: RAB Latok

Neptune Mountaineering

Clothing